Frequently asked questions

Samsung-Elite is an independent repair service specialising in Samsung home appliances — washers, dishwashers, dryers and refrigerators — with in-home service in Amman, Zarqa, Salt, Madaba and Sahab.

No. We are an independent service provider specialising in Samsung appliance repair, not an official Samsung centre or authorised agent. If your appliance is under the manufacturer’s warranty, check its terms first.

We focus on four Samsung appliances: front-load washers, dishwashers, dryers and refrigerators of all types.

Our main specialisation is Samsung. If you have another brand, message us on WhatsApp with the brand and model and we’ll tell you whether we can help.

Amman, Zarqa, Salt, Madaba and Sahab. If you’re near these areas, contact us to confirm we can reach you.

Call 0782540147, send a WhatsApp message, or fill in the request form on the site — WhatsApp opens with a ready-made message containing all the details.

Appliance type and model number, the error code if shown, a description of the problem and when it started, and your area. Photos of the display and label help a lot.

Yes — most faults are diagnosed and repaired where the appliance stands. A few cases may need extra arrangements, which we explain before any step.

Yes, an adult should be present to welcome the technician, explain the problem and approve the proposed fix.

Yes — mention your preferred day and time in the request form or WhatsApp message and we’ll confirm with you.

It depends on the fault and any part needed. We diagnose first and explain the cause, proposed fix and cost before starting the repair.

An initial idea is possible if you send the model, error code and description on WhatsApp, but the final cost is set after inspection.

Yes — warranty details (duration and coverage) are explained when the repair is agreed. See the warranty page for the general terms.

We tell you the type and source of the proposed part before fitting it — the decision is yours.

Photograph the display, look the code up on your appliance’s code page and do only the safe checks, then restart after unplugging. If it returns, send it to us with the model.

Not necessarily — a code points to the system that struggled (water, drain, heating, door…), and the cause may be a filter, hose or setting before it’s a broken part.

Code formats vary by appliance generation and display type. That’s why every code has a model note, and we recommend sending your model number to confirm.

Every one to three months depending on use, and immediately if draining slows or it smells. Homes with children or pets need it more often.

That pattern is typical of unbalanced loads — it depends on what is in each wash. If it happens with every load, the cause is usually mechanical or drain-related.

Yes — very common in tank-fed homes. If pressure is weak at certain times, run the washer when it is better.

Most Samsung front-loaders in Jordan are connected to cold water and heat it themselves with the internal heater.

Not recommended, especially for leaks underneath — water can reach electrical parts. Stop using it until the source is found.

Light vibration is normal; strong movement or the washer walking is not and points to load, levelling or damper problems.

No. Forcing can break the hook or lock unit — and it is dangerous if there is hot water inside. Follow the steps or call a technician.

Usually the door isn’t locked, child lock is on, delay start is set, or Start needs a long press.

Weekly to fortnightly with daily use, or whenever you see debris or notice a smell.

Usually hard water and too little rinse aid or salt, sometimes too much detergent. Adjust per your manual.

Follow your model’s installation guide; most dishwashers connect to cold water and heat it internally.

It doesn’t hold heat like glass and china, so more water stays on it — normal in most dishwashers.

Stop the programme, remove the foam with towels and a sponge, then run one or more short rinses without detergent until the foam is completely gone.

Far less than most people expect — a small amount per stage, recirculated through the spray arms. That’s why it can look like “too little water”; it’s normal.

Usually yes — it’s the detergent dispenser opening, or the distributor switching water on some models.

Usually the door wasn’t closed within the allowed time after pressing Start, or isn’t fully latched.

It’s designed to dry at lower temperatures for longer to save energy and protect fabrics — normal, not a fault.

It depends on load, fabric and dryer type; heat-pump dryers naturally take longer. What matters is a sudden change.

Not recommended — on some designs a belt switch stops the motor; on others stationary clothes can overheat in one spot.

On many models you can connect a direct drain hose instead. Check the installation guide or ask us about your model.

Usually the door isn’t fully closed, Child Lock is on, the water tank is full or Delay End is set. Check them in that order.

Not immediately, but it usually means worn rollers, and ignoring it adds load to the belt and motor. Better to have it checked early.

Usually the moisture sensors are coated with softener residue, or the load is too small. Clean the sensors and try a medium load.

Not until you know the cause. If a faint smell disappeared completely after cleaning the filter it may have been lint, but any recurrence means stop and have it inspected.

A new fridge, or one after defrosting, may need several hours and up to 24 hours to fully stabilise, especially with a large load.

Around −18 °C is the usual recommendation for storing frozen food safely.

Very light frost after opening the door can appear and disappear; permanent ice build-up isn’t normal and indicates a fault.

Around 3 °C suits most food, staying below 5 °C for food safety.

Many fridges delay the compressor a few minutes to protect it from starting under high pressure. Wait a little before worrying.

After installation or a restart it can take up to 24 hours to produce a normal amount of ice.

After drawing a lot, new water needs time to chill. If it’s always warm, the fridge itself may not be cooling properly.

Usually the defrost drain is partly blocked, so water backs up into the fridge instead of running to the pan.